- The origins of neckties date back to the early 2nd century, when Roman soldiers wore a piece of cloth called a focale around the neck for protection against the cold. After this, a belt-like cloth worn around the neck or collar and tied in front was generically called a necktie. They are also simply called ties. It was in the latter half of the 17th century when neckties as we know them today made their first appearance in the history. At that time, soldiers of a French regiment called the Royale Cravate wore a piece of cloth around their neck. Court noblemen also started to wear them as ornaments to the collars of their coats around 1660, naming them "cravate." The cravate in the 17th century was made of beautiful lace or hemp. The typical style was to wind it twice around the neck, tie it in front and let the ends hang down. In the 18th century, a black ribbon was worn tied in a bow in front as an ornament to the tip of the collar, but fell out of fashion after the French Revolution. During the reign of Napoleon I, a broad scarf was wound very high around the neck as if to hide the chin, with its ends tied in a small knot at the front center. It was only after the mid 19th century that varieties of neckties as we know them today, such as bow ties and ascot ties, came into existence. The 20th century saw the debut of four-in-hands, which are so called because the length of the necktie that hangs down is four times longer than the palm. This is the most commonly worn necktie now.
- Back in 1851, neckties were first introduced to Japan by Nakahama "John" Manjiro when he came home from overseas. It is reported that the first neckties ever produced in Japan, in 1884, were bow ties.
- In 1997, domestic production was 36.35 million (65%), of which 0.44 million were exported. Imports, on the other hand, were 19.34 million (35%). Of domestic production, 32.63 million (90%) are made of 100% silk, 2.62 million (7%) of synthetic fiber, 0.87 million (2%) mixed silk, and 0.23 million (1%) other materials. Of the 0.44 million of exports, 364,000 (83%) are made of silk, 67,000 (15%) of artificial fiber, and the remaining 9,000 (2%) of other materials. Of 19.34 million imports, 17.92 million (93%) are made of silk, 1.24 million (6%) of artificial fiber, and the remaining 0.18 million (1%) of other materials.
- By material domestic production is as follows (unit:million units):
|
1989 |
1993 |
1997 |
| 100% silk |
37.82 |
41.25 |
32.63 |
Synthetic fiber
|
12.71 |
8.79 |
2.62 |
| Mixed silk |
3.41 |
1.37 |
0.87 |
| Others |
1.70 |
0.91 |
0.23 |
| Total |
55.64 |
52.32 |
36.35 |
The above statistics show that the percentage of artificial fibers (acetate, polyester) and mixed cloth between them and silk is on the decline, and that, due to sluggish consumption and increased inventory in the distribution sector against the background of the on-going recession, domestic production in 1997 dropped significantly.
- In 1997, by destination export amounts were:
| 1. |
U.S.A. |
\ 313,921,000 |
( 72%) |
| 2. |
Hong Kong
|
\ 40,316,000 |
( 9%) |
| 3. |
Korea |
\ 27,322,000 |
( 7%) |
| 4. |
Taiwan |
\ 21,017,000 |
( 5%) |
| 5. |
Canada |
\ 8,181,000 |
( 2%) |
| 6. |
Others |
\ 22,719,000 |
( 5%) |
|
Total |
\ 433,476,000
|
(100%) |
- In 1997, by country import amounts were:
| 1. |
Italy |
\ 11,487,252,000 |
( 58%) |
| 2. |
France |
\ 2,569,356,000 |
( 13%) |
| 3. |
Korea |
\ 2,414,314,000 |
( 12%) |
| 4. |
China |
\ 1,675,017,000 |
( 12%) |
| 5. |
U.S.A. |
\ 693,475,000 |
( 3%) |
| 6. |
UK |
\ 579,027,000 |
( 3%) |
| 7. |
Spain |
\ 371,173,000 |
( 2%) |
| 8. |
Others |
\ 114,446,000 |
( 1%) |
|
Total |
\ 19,904,060,000
|
(100%) |
In terms of the quantity imported, Korea comes first with 6.41 million, followed by China with 6.15 million and Italy with 5.35 million. The average price per unit of Korean imports is \377 and that of China \272, whereas that of Italy is \2,145, about eight times that of China. The average price of imported neckties is \1,026, and that of domestically produced ties \2,400.
- Japanese tie manufacturers do not produce offshore, but in many cases, they provide technical instructions in overseas countries. For example, Korea has become one of the largest producers in the world, thanks to technical assistance from Japan. More recently, technical assistance has been shifting to China.
- On the streets of Japan, neckties labeled "Made in Italy" are often retailed at \1,000-\1,500. The trick is, they are produced in Korea or China, shipped to Italy, where they attach the label for export to Japan; or they use cloth made in Italy, export it to Japan and sew it at low cost for the Japanese market.
- With the addition of trading companies and apparel companies, the number of businesses dealing in imported neckties is increasing. Imported neckties do not sell unless they carry popular brand names. Popular brand neckties are sold at department stores and specialty stores, and their second brands or second versions are distributed at supermarkets and other mass merchandisers and roadside stores like Aoyama and Aoki. The core customer group for mass merchandisers and roadside stores is young couples. Although some 70% of neckties are still sold through department stores, the figure has fallen to around 60% of its peak, and an increasing number of department stores have moved their necktie counter from the ground floor to the men's clothes corner, which usually on a higher floor, typically on the sixth floor. When it was on the ground floor, men used to drop in after work and make impulse purchases. Now that the typical tie counter has moved to a higher floor, male customers are rarely seen. The typical purchase pattern now is women buying them as gifts to men. In these cases, they almost always opt for popular famous brands.
- Usually, the primary factors that affect sales of neckties are:1. Color and pattern, 2. Brand image, and 3. Price. But this trend is changing. Consumers choose cheaper versions even if they are by second brands, and an increasing number of consumers purchase five neckties for \2,000 each instead of one necktie at \10,000.
- In the past, different neckties were designed for each season, but, due to the increase in imports, they now are mainly designed for two seasons only:spring/summer, and autumn/winter. Before the start of each season, brand designers decide on a basic color and pattern trend, and place orders with textile factories.
- Manufacturers and importers alike buy PL insurance for themselves, but, since this is not a kind of merchandise that carries a risk to life, no major accidents have been reported. The worst thing that can happen is that they discolor due to chemical changes, or stain the shirt underneath. If this happens, few Japanese consumers pursue the matter. In Europe and North America, they take it for granted that beautifully-colored neckties often discolor. In Japan, however, this is not the case, and colors that may fade are never used. This is partly because markings such as "May discolor," "Beware sweat," or "Needs special care when cleaning" are thought to be demerits, and can negatively affect their sales.
- There are two sales channels for imports. They are:
- Exporters -> Japanese outlets of the brand (e.g."Dior Japan") -> Department stores, mass merchandisers, roadside stores, specialty stores;and
- Exporters -> Japanese outlets for the brand -> Wholesalers -> Department stores, mass merchandisers, roadside stores, specialty stores.
- For necktie manufacturers to survive, they must now become global players. It is expected that Japan will be a tie-consuming country, not a producing country. Just like whiskey, necktie manufacturers will increasingly go global and will have to cope with the global market.
Source:Statistics on Customs and Tariffs, Ministry of Finance
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